BX16V.com Forum

My downpipe is stuck on. I think I'm going to have to grind the nuts off the bolts from below has anyone done this before?

So frustrating, I have a complete exhaust system sitting waiting to be put on! Going to get it on ramps on Wednesday so I really need to get it off that day somehow.

Question... How long is the spring join? I'm going to have to buy it some new bolts.

AFAIK you can buy the fitting kits that include the bolts,springs and gasket, about £30 last time i had one, was a few years back tho.


Jez

i had to grind the nuts of mine as one of mine was solid! but typically french it was the one you cant get anything big into lol! so the dremel was used!! took a whil;e but worked okay! then used a long bar to knock the bottom washer off the spring to release it!
would be worth getting a fitting kit as jezzie said! they have all the bolts in and springs! as when i did my new ring the springs i had were to long!! but also worth then fitting them do them up full then crack them of a smidge! tends to stop them seizing to the end of the thread!

Yes the kits are still available IIRC even GSF do them - they usually come with a set of springs.gasket and several pairs of different length bolts as the kit is for several models.

Cheers
Luke

Timmo wrote:i had to grind the nuts of mine as one of mine was solid!

Sounds painful Timmo

I take my car to pieces so often nothing gets chance to seize!

Cheers
Chris G

I think I've found the required kit with GSF.

I have no Dremel, any other suggestions? Apart from buy a Dremel I'm trying to foresee tomorrow eve but I thought maybe if I removed the gear linkages I could get under the downpipe with an angle grinder and maybe a small disc...

you can by all accounts get a grinder up the passenger side of the down pipe (u.k car) but not a chance in hell of getting it up the drivers side!! and thats always the one thats seized hard! lol!
i used the dremel as it was the only thing i had that was labour saving that i could get up there loL! (if you do get one make sure you have a load of cutting and grinding disc's in with it! i used the grinding disc as the cutting ones snap too easy! )

It seems to be the passenger side that is seized worst on mine. The nut and bolt are both rounded too but on the driver's side I think the nut is at least still hexagonal, so I should be able to get it off even if it means just putting a socket on and shearing the bolt on purpose!...

Best release agent I have used is Plus Gas but it seems hard to find these days.
I would try to get a good socket on there from underneath and use anything you can to grip the top and like you say just use brute force.
Failing that a small grinder or a cheapie "20 dremmel copy from B&Q

Cheers
Luke

Plusgas is the nuts! You have to be careful where you spill it though

Maybe a B&Q job will be the way forward... both nut and bolt are completely rounded.

plus gas is great stuff but as luke said its a pain to track down now!
i did see on one forum a guy posted about irony! 'the nozzle on my plus gas has seized'!!:D
the passenger side one you can with carful hands around the pipes at the bottom get a normal angle grinder up in there! the only thing i ofund a pain is that you always need a second person to be able to put some greif ont he top of the bolt when your trying to get the bottom off loL! either that or an additional pair of 17ft long arms!

if you have a long pry bar or cold chisel then you can knock the bottom washer off the spring to release the springs and get the bolt out without to much trouble! or it allows you to get enough movement to push the cup out of the manifold! its a bit brutal but its a way around it loL!

most effective tool for these is an air die grinder or cut-off tool but as you prob dont have these either its just a case of brute force, chisels and straightforward shearing the bugggers in the opposite dirrection! miole grip the top shaft and blast the air gun on the nut......
Its often easier to get a driveshaft out of the way first for nice clearance, its even easier still to bung your tyre garge a fiver to blow it off with there Oxy acetylene you can do them from above with that!!

Incidentally the official kit from Citroen comes with loads of pertmutations of length bolts and is V pricey, any exhaust factor will have the bits from the Timax book, prob works out about 6-50 that way, and whilst the 16v one isn't alwys listed the 8v metal mesh one is the same.

Well, it came off, and wise words Ollie, the Citroen kit cost £18 damn!

In the end it was a lot easier with two! And some ramps. A combination of deep sockets, mole grips and long fingers did the trick.

Now got a whole new system on with a P2 back box. It's definitely better, but still nowhere near as fast as it should be

Going to retrack the AFM and see if that helps... after that it's filters, plugs and HT leads!

Good to hear you are all sorted but all this talk of slow valver worries me a tad

The BX 16v has a great suspension system and even when being pushed they seldom feel "fast and loose" like most quick older Vauxhalls and Fords - my mate reckoned my valver felt slow compared to his M reg 1.8 mundane LX

Looks like a RR day would be usefull

Cheers
Luke